High Cup Nick (1900')

Sun 1 Jul 2018

For an index to my other walks please click here

Head of the valley, High Cup Nick c.1900ft above sea level

Andrew called for me on a day of glorious sunshine, and drove to Bow Hall Farm, near Dufton. I didn't recognise the lane where our walk started, although I had been there when walking the Pennine Way, (24 September 2004) and, indeed, once in the nineteen seventies with Peter and Roy my two Pownall Hall colleagues who were spending a weekend near Appleby.

Looking back to Dufton Pike

So many old lime kilns in this area

Most of the track I did recognise, but we missed Narrow Gate, where the path becomes merely a wide ledge above the chasm on the right, because a way-mark directed us to a higher path up on the left.

Left (upper path) right, Narrowgate

We stopped for lunch on the upper path, and then continued to the edge of top of the valley. I must say the sight of the canyon wasn't as thrilling as it had been on the first two times I'd seen it - 'been there, done that', sort of feeling. But the view of Nichol (or Nichol's) Chair (or Last) aroused the same amazement. The 'slender pillar of basalt...is named after a Dufton cobbler  who not only climbed it but, the story goes, soled and heeled a pair of boots whilst sitting on the top'.*

Nick's Chair

   The path of the 'official' route which took a wide sweep north to the bridge over Maize Beck is now difficult to find, with only one or two cairns and one way-mark post left to show the way. 

Old way-mark post

The icon of the Long Distance Footpaths
The old bridge over Maize Beck, now largely unused

Many Pennine Wayfarers use neither the path nor the bridge now. In my report of my journey for that part of the Pennine Way I wrote: Why a bridge was not built where the fords are I cannot say. If one was made long enough, with a middle support, it would surely withstand any flood? Well, apparently two have been built since then, perhaps where AW indicates cairns, and where I made a note in his guide. Andrew suggested walking to one of them but that would have added two miles to the walk and we like to set off back home sooner on a Sunday in case of delays on the motorway.

For a round trip, the valley route can be used

We went to the edge to look down a stony track which some walkers use as an alternative return to Dufton; but we chose not to go that way as it would also have meant a long road walk back to the car.

Looking back at Narrowgate, at Hannah's Well.
Note the steep slope on the right

         As it was I found the going quite hard on the return, especially the lower path at Narrow Gate, with a crag on one sidet and a drop on the other, which we had missed on the way up. I found the sense of exposure unpleasant. There is no real danger, only a fear of overbalancing which I have suffered from of late. We found the stream that crosses the path and thereafter I felt safer. Unfortunately we missed seeing Hannah's Well near this spot.
          The last half mile over execrable loose stones was unpleasant and tiring, although the whole trip had been only six miles or so.
Later, as was to be expected on a Sunday, we ran into a slow queue of traffic on the M6 so left it just north of Lancaster and used the A6 thereafter. All in all a good day.

*Pennine Companion by A Wainwright p64