Mon 22 Apr 2019
You can find an index to my other walks here.
Up at five and off from home by 6:15 to take part in one of The Wainwright Society's Annual Challenges. This year it was to visit one of the mountain passes in the Lake District and I applied for my choice as soon as I could by First Class Mail - Nan Bield Pass linking Kentmere valley and Mardale. The path goes over the col between Harter Fell and Mardale Ill Bell, at a height of approximately 2000 feet.
To cut down the distance walking I chose to start at Mardale Head and go south, as Kentmere valley is a good three miles long. The car park at Mardale Head was almost full. I got my rucksack ready. I always manage to put too much in, and this time was no exception. I tried to keep the weight down by not taking too much to eat, but needing at least a litre of water and Lucozade. It seemed so heavy when lifting it up, but it was only 10lb. Once on my back it felt okay.
The path is not easy, having many large stones to avoid, although the first section isn't steep. A few people overtook me, some of them with the ubiquitous canine species, and one bloke was intent on doing as much riding as possible on his mountain bike!
I met some strong lads in their twenties as they descended after spending the night by Small Water, and a family including three young children who had done the same. They came from Sedbergh, and the father and I had a pleasant chat about the Howgills. These chance meetings and greetings on the fells add so much to the enjoyment of the day.
It was good to reach the falls just below Small Water, and then the beautiful tarn itself, which was much larger than I had expected.
From my seated position by Small Water I could make out no path up the rocky fell side to the depression on the horizon which had to be the Nan Bield Pass. My desire to reach it was strong, but would my shaky legs manage the uneven terrain, and, perhaps more important, would I be able to descend safely afterwards!
Very little rain having fallen recently a number of people were sitting on the dry grassy bank. Virtually everyone I had seen so far this hot and sunny morning was wearing very light clothing, and had a rucksack which looked just about big enough to hold a sweater and maybe a small lunch box.
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I crossed the outlet stream and started on the good path around the shore until I reached the small shelters that AW described as 'spider-infested'. On this warm, dry morning they weren't needed. From there the path climbing below Piot Crag, although steep, was mostly easy to follow, but I found using both my walking poles awkward so I strapped one to my rucksack. AW says it's a cairned route, but among the tumble of rocks around I saw only one or two.
I made slow progress, often turning to look back at the beautiful scene below, the tarn so inviting and the view beyond so clear all the way to Haweswater.
But I persevered, and wasn't I glad when rounding a huge rock I saw the col before me - Nan Bield at last! Glorious! The views magnificent; the usually strong, cold wind a lovely gentle breeze; someone lying shirtless on the grass in the sun; a number of runners dashing down from Mardale Ill Bell and on up to Harter; a girl on a bike starting down the Kentmere path; and me, by the shelter, having my photo kindly taken by someone dressed for the beach at Blackpool!
I opened my lunch box thinking how lucky I was to be sitting 2000 feet above two valleys calmly eating my pork and pickle pies! It would have been nice to have a bivouac there; but all too soon I had to get back down and that would be almost as much a challenge as the ascent.
Yes, I got down safely, slowly, often swaying a little, using two poles all the way. I apologise to all others taking the Challenge for commandeering the best of the Lakeland passes and possibly the easiest to reach, but I did it because it's my favourite one, and in thanks to he who has inspired me ever since I opened one of his books.
